Review Score: 95 / 100.
The name of Guy Savoy seems to be synonymous with hospitality and the finest French cuisine that one could imagine. His eponymous restaurant was recently relocated to Hôtel de la Monnaie, which is quite the contemporary space with various artwork on display. It certainly felt like entering a modernist temple of gastronomy.
Coming from a rather long flight from Malaysia, I decided to be a tad more restrained by ordering the 3-course lunch menu, which came with various wonderful additional amuses and sides. Although that was about the only discipline I had, as I subsequently ordered a Rose Champagne, followed by a new more glasses of wine to pair with my dishes. Oh well, when in Rome.
The meal started off with a bang, which was tiny skewered foie gras toast (not pictured). This is a classic combination with the unctuous foie gras paired against the crunch of the brioche toast. It certainly shouted “Welcome back to France!”
Next, I had a platter of rather crisp and immaculate vegetables.
Next, was a cup of carrot soup accented with lemongrass. Both flavors paired very well with each other, and the carrot flavour was certainly prominent and with a texture that was pure velvet.
And Voila! A surprise underneath the cup. Unfortunately couldn’t quite recall what it was exactly.
Now, this dish probably ranks as one of the best dishes I’ve ever had. Black truffle and artichoke soup with Parmesan cheese. The soup was intense with the flavour of artichokes, punctuated by the earthiness of black truffles and the umami, salty hit from the Parmesan cheese. This was served with a ridiculously flaky and decadent mushroom brioche, which was slathered with a large gob of black truffle butter, which spread like cream cheese. I mean, come on! If this doesn’t do it for you, I’m not sure what will.
For the main course, I moved on the the Rolls Royce of chickens, which is Poulet from Bresse served with balsamic vinegar and mushrooms. The chicken was beautiful cooked and tender, while the balsamic vinegar added a nice acidity to balance out the richness. The Girolle mushrooms were also delicious. Whilst I was happily eating away, the server decided to give me another hefty portion of chicken. It was incredibly generous of them, and I couldn’t say no, being the glutton I am.
As an intermezzo before dessert, I had a melon sorbet with melon crisp and watermelon jus. This was very refreshing and I enjoyed the chilled, crisp watermelon juice, that was redolent of summer.
Now for the coup de grace, an immaculate Mille Feuille with Tahitian vanilla cream. The amount of vanilla pods were just insane, and I never had a vanilla cream that pure in flavour with the appropriate amount of sweetness. The mille feuille was also perfectly made, delicate yet able to maintain its integrity. This is undoubtedly one of the greatest joys in life.
Being the generous chef he is, guests are pampered with a marvelous array of petit fours.
And more to come. Like a kid in a Michelin starred candy store, albeit probably much more expensive.
And some macarons to boot.
What a meal! It was certainly not the most inventive of meals compared to the likes of Le Cinq or Akelarre, but it is perfectly executed French cookery which is decadent and ultimately comforting. Eating at Guy Savoy is like being pampered by a generous French uncle, who isn’t too worried about giving you a little bit extra foie gras, brioche toast, and all things delicious. If you’re looking for a classically comforting, generous French cuisine, this is certainly the place to be. Guy Savoy will take care of you, and then some!
Location: Monnaie de Paris. 11, quai de Conti, 75006 Paris, France. Website.